Ragged Ramblers: Togs & Time Walk

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On Saturday 19th March two members of The Ragged Society of Antiquarian Ramblers will lead a group on an historically focused history walk along the river Wensum. 'Wensum' is an old English word meaning 'winding' - a descriptor; for that is exactly what the river does as it wends its way through Norwich.

Standing here, on Fye bridge, you are looking at what was once the heart of the Anglo-Scandinavian port. 'Norwich' itself is derived from the words, 'north' and 'port' (or, settlement). At some point during the post-Norman period, the port was re-located to the stretch of river parallel to King Street. By the 15-1600s, this was where the ducking (or 'Cucking') stool was located.

On a plaque located on Quayside, it states (erroneously) that the ducking stool was for punishing "dishonest" people. In actual fact, although used sparingly (and only during warmer months), this shaming punishment was primarily used against women who were found guilty of scolding and, especially, brawling behaviour. Therefore, rather than being a form of punishment for dishonesty, there is a very good case for arguing that it was actually aimed at those who were entirely honest and true to themselves; even if the outcome of this was deemed to be anti-social and unacceptable by the authorities. However, there were other offences which were, on occasion, punishable by ducking:

This is an unusually rich description, and allows us to trace the route of Agnes' public shaming. It is also very significant that final destination of her noisy public humiliation is St Stephens, the parish in which she lived (for more on this subject, visit here: The Shaming of Agnes Leman)

On a more contemporary - and random! - note, the day I walked the route in preparation for our Ragged Ramble, I noted a Dr Who DVD case floating serenly on its way. Every time I paused to write notes or take a photograph, it seemed to glide along next to me. Curiously, a few days later I met the actor, Terry Malloy, who played Davros 'King' of the Daleks on Dr Who. I can prove it, as I asked for his autograph...

As I made my way along the river I came to an interesting juxtaposition of and and new... The 1920s Whitefriar's bridge in the foreground, with a 'noughties' construction in glass and steel frame; in the distance, one of the finest surviving Victorian mills in the country, St James' Mill.

Standing here, with my back to the modern-day law court, I do hope I remember to mention the remains of the Norman house which remain intact underneath the current structure. I have visited these, and there are two metres of standing wall remaining; a significant survivor!

St James' Mill in a 'Dutch' angle

Having walked this route previously with my esteemed R.S.A.R. colleague, Thadeus Basil-Snapper the Third, we had been troubled by the disruption of the sight-lines from the willow trees lining the bank next to the mill. Therefore, I ordered that they be pruned in time for our venture...

With the river to my back I took a picture of the only surviving swan-pit in Britain. This sluiced area was where swans were fattened for the cathedral table (that is, for the Bishop and/or Prior and their guests). The pre-Reformation pit had been located within the cathedral precinct. This one dates from the Eighteenth century. 

The birds' beaks were also given distinctive marks in order to designate ownership. Here are some images taken from early Sixteenth century swan rolls held at the Norfolk Record Office...

Source: Norwich Record Office

The elephantine bark of the huge tree; a spray of yellow daffodils - in the distance, the misty cathedral spire...

At the river's bend, stands a late Fourteenth century blockhouse. A fortified tower with embrasures designed to allow canons to fire. Although the top of the tower overlooks the land on the opposite bank, I'm quite sure that the investment in this structure was, in part at least, designed to project the wealth and status of Norwich's civic authorities.

I'm even more convinced that this crack in the wall, facing the river, was not caused by canon fire during the time of the 1549 Kett's Rebellion. It seems far more plausible that it is a settlement crack caused by a structural instability.

Strange to think that when this was built, in the final years of the reign of Richard 11, that it was so very new and just as 'modern' as the 'noughties' glass structure we had noted next to St James' Mill. Curious too that proximate to this grand structure is a simple bench where a local man, Bob Green, used to sit with his dog, Sophie. We Ragged Ramblers love this kind of thing. The Bob Green's and the Agnes Leman's are our Everyman and Everywoman; they are, generally, the 'People without Plaques'. We do our part to recognise their contribution. There are Bob's and Agnes' everywhere we pass - there are "faithful canine friends" too!

Here is the Fourteenth century Bishops bridge. Oftentimes people will say that this is the oldest bridge in Norwich. It isn't; the Norman Norwich Castle bridge pre-dates it.

We like surprising angles. Here is a shot of the river near Pull's Ferry, taken looking through a knot hole in a fence. That is the bench where, several years ago, I sat in the company of R.S.A.R. member, Mr. Many Coats. We were engrossed in conversation when a Cock Robin swooped down and swiped the chicken I was about to eat, clean out of my hand. I yelped! It was like something from a Hitchcock movie.

This was also the place where, aged twenty five I jumped in the river and attempted to rescue a man who was drowning. It was a idyllic summer day. I had been sitting here with my girlfriend of the time, when I saw him disappear. I jumped in and swam to find him, intending to knock him out if need be, as I reached about in the dark water. Three times I went under, but to no avail. Just then a pleasure cruiser went by, and, with a presence of mind that later surprised me, I asked for their boat hook. Using this I managed to pull him to the bank, where my girlfriend and a passer-by attempted to revive him. He was taken away to hospital. Sadly, he died that night. His name was James Shields, and he was a 46 year old homeless man, originally from Scotland. Try as they might, the authorities were unable to find any living relative to pay for his funeral. As a result, me and my girlfriend were the only people to attend his funeral. James Shields is another person without a plaque. He is important too. Every one of us are active in making history - and we carry history in our heads...

I'm skipping a lot of walk and a long stretch of water here, but eventually (after a break for lunch), we will make our way up the precipitous slopes of the Butter Hills. We will ascend the way up to the Carrow ridge, where stands the Black Tower. This section of wall is by far the most impressive survivor from the orginal late Twelfth, early Fourteenth, century wall.

I may have a lot to say here, and folk will have a lot to see. A grand place, then, to end a history-photography 'Togs & Time' walk.

See our Ragged Ramblers' Google Map for the route (starts at St Ethelbert's Gate at Norwich Cathedral: right click to centre map, and then focus in progressively)

~ Munro Tweeder-Harris, Esq. R.S.A.R. ~

Postscript: We would like to thank everyone who attended the Togs & Time Walk today. We were very fortunate to walk beneath such a miraculously blue sky. It was a genuine pleasure to spend time, learning and laughing together. On behalf of the Ragged Society of Antiquarian Ramblers - Huzzah!